Are you ready for this? A few years ago one of my most beloved friends and I spontaneously jetted off to S. America in search of waves. I decided I would type out my exact journal with the true accounts of how it all played out. One of my goals is to someday finish typing out the whole thing, put it all together and call it a book. Wanna read the first chapter? It's a rough draft, and not a word has been changed from my original journal.. Well, you've already gotten this far haven't you?
Collecting good vibes from the islands, as the clouds carry rain drops to the tip of Kaena Point. I’m caught in a trance, as a turtle takes in a fresh breath of air just within reaching distance of me. The turquoise and cobalt blue water compliment each other and the ocean seems to flirt with herself. A sand crab is teased by the sea lapping to come and play, the waves which seem so big to him are so tempting..but he scurries back to safety, tickling the sand with his feet. An imaginary canvas in my head is smeared with color and intensity. The rich blues, tropical greens, skin colored sand, and browns of the earth. I am at peace here, this is my home, Oahu, yet something is calling for me to go..but where? Someplace far with sand, sun, salt water, and inspiration. Somewhere raw, with friendly people, an abundance of animals I’ve never imagined and overgrown with tropical plants, I’m yearning for that cultural difference, a challenge.
My meditation is broken by the vibration of my cell, and I smile as I pick up. “Aloha Heather! I think its time we plan this surf trip..” I go on babbling about my intimate meeting I’ve just had at Pueana Point, one of our favorite breaks, and how inspired and creative I feel, and she invites me to come and hang out. I cruise along Ali’i beach and turn left at the bus stop with the cross walk, it’s how I remember it’s the right street to her house. The passing rain has filled the air with tropical smells and I pick a perfect fallen plumeria from the grass to tuck behind my ear.
As I arrive at Heather’s house I am greeted by the neighbors 2 ton (or so it looks) pot belly pig, whom after noticing I didn’t come baring gifts of food hardly seems to care I’m there, and Charlie her black and white fat cat, who is purring at the foot her surf sticker decorated door. He’s always so happy to see a visitor, because any friend of Heather’s is a friend of Charlie’s too. The door swings open and she blurts out “Yaaay Elise is here! I’m so glad you are here!”
Heather is a petite tan surfer girl, with long blonde hair that lands just at her waist, she always has a smile and a hug, and more often then not a smudge of paint somewhere on her skin or clothes. Her house is cozy, and makes you feel like your straight out of a vintage surf flick. A quiver of logs (a term used for a heavy longboard) line the ceiling beams, skateboards of all sizes impatiently wait by the door, next to her vans and slippers. The colors she has painted her abode are calm and soothing, and raffia mats cover the floor. The place is small with 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. One room she uses as her studio, and is filled with secrets that I excitedly beg to peek at. The kitchen hosts a stove top and smaller than normal fridge, which fits in her pad perfectly. “Do you want some tea?” Heather asks as I sink into her mushy purple couch. We decide that tonight we will go bomb a freshly paved road just outside the land that her parents bought, before we grab sushi at Banzai, our favorite place. We chat for a while then scoop up the boards and do some serious concrete surfing. After a few crashes and some them some sake to heal the pain at the sushi joint, we set up to paint in Heather’s living room. Both she and I were born on March 27th, we love to surf, dive, skate, travel and most of all.. paint. We bounced ideas off each other as we plan out our trip to Costa Rica. The thing thats so ironic was that there isn’t much planning to be done. All we want to know was how we are getting there and when. Pavones, which is considered the ‘second longest left in the world’ is a priority on this trip, and to any goofy footed surfer this is also considered heaven. So Costa Rica it is, a mysterious land far away with salt water, surf, tropical plants, animals, and friendly non-english speaking people.
|Just before our departure from Honolulu|